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Knitting interloops one-dimensional yarns into three-dimensional fabrics that exhibit behaviour beyond their constitutive materials. How extensibility and anisotropy emerge from the hierarchical organization of yarns into knitted fabrics has long been unresolved. We seek to unravel the mechanical roles of tensile mechanics, assembly and dynamics arising from the yarn level on fabric nonlinearity by developing a yarn-based dynamical model. This physically validated model captures the mechanical response of knitted fabrics, analogous to flexible metamaterials and biological fibre networks due to geometric nonlinearity within such hierarchical systems. Fabric anisotropy originates from observed yarn–yarn rearrangements during alignment dynamics and is topology-dependent. This yarn-based model also provides a design space of knitted fabrics to embed functionalities by varying geometric configuration and material property in instructed procedures compatible to machine manufacturing. Our hierarchical approach to build up a knitted fabric computationally modernizes an ancient craft and represents a first step towards mechanical programmability of knitted fabrics in wide engineering applications. 

Abstract Materials with target nonlinear mechanical response can support the design of innovative soft robots, wearable devices, footwear, and energy‐absorbing systems, yet it is challenging to realize them. Here, mechanical metamaterials based on hinged quadrilaterals are used as a platform to realize target nonlinear mechanical responses. It is first shown that by changing the shape of the quadrilaterals, the amount of internal rotations induced by the applied compression can be tuned, and a wide range of mechanical responses is achieved. Next, a neural network is introduced that provides a computationally inexpensive relationship between the parameters describing the geometry and the corresponding stress–strain response. Finally, it is shown that by combining the neural network with an evolution strategy, one can efficiently identify geometries resulting in a wide range of target nonlinear mechanical responses and design optimized energy‐absorbing systems, soft robots, and morphing structures.